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PC
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If you are only interested in use the PC for emulating old arcade machines, you don't need a particularly powerful computer. I wanted some computer games for this system too, so I got a computer from a local shop, using ASUS materials. The case must fit the depth of 15"-16" (with cables connected), so pick carefully |
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LCD Monitor
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The size of the cabinet requires an LCD monitor. Fortunately, prices have dropped recently. You want to find one that can be wall-mounted. The Samsung 20" monitor fit my needs perfectly.
Some Samsung monitors have both computer (VGA) and console (RCA) connectors, which would have avoided the need for the ViewSonic device below. But, I preferred the clean black frame of the one I picked.
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Speakers
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Sound is also important. Ideally, you'll find speakers that can be mounted to the cabinet. |
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ViewSonic NextVision N4 Video Processor
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I hoped a device like this existed, it was necessary to make the project work, and a helpful Best Buy salesperson (no, that is not an oxymoron) pointed me to the ViewSonic NextVision Video Processor. It can switch between VGA (computer), S-Video, AV connectors, and TV. I wish I could have put the cabinet against a wall where I could have stretched a TV signal to, but no such luck.
The ViewSonic comes with a small remote, but the buttons on the front are at least as useful
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Pelican RF/AV System Selector
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The ViewSonic has one set of AV input connectors. Since the Secret Arcade is designed for three different consoles, I needed a switcher. The Pelican RF/AV System Selector not only had five connections (giving room for the future), it had nice plastic labels that are interchangeable on the front of the box. This was also purchased at BestBuy. Unfortunately, it appears that Pelican has discontinued this. |
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Power Strips
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Given the number of items to be plugged in, you may want to have two power sticks. Several of these devices use power bricks (blocks to be plugged directly into the power socket), so get power strips designed for them. Also, look for power strips that have a thin plug. The farther back the cabinet is, the less likely someone is to see details that suggest there's something unusual here. |
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Keyboard
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For the keyboard, I chose the Virtually Indestructible Keyboard. The keyboard is made of soft plastic, meaning it can be bent, rolled up, etc. This also means you can easily staple the edges to a surface so that it stays put even when upside-down. I got this at the local Comp-USA. |
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Logitech Trackball
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Just putting a plug in for the Logitech TrackMan Wheel, a trackball that I discovered years ago and use with all my computers. It was very easy to attach with epoxy. |
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Arcade Buttons and Joysticks
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These buttons are made by a company called Happ. The buttons have a microswitch at the bottom to trigger when they are hit. The Joysticks have four microswitchs that are triggered when the stick moves up, down, left, or right. These are connected to the IPAC (see below). I purchased these from GameCabinets, Inc., who sold me the plans for my first arcade machine. |
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Ultimarc I-PAC2
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This clever device is wired to the various buttons and joysticks, and converts them into keypresses on a virtual keyboard that the MAME software recognizes. It can be connected as a PS/2 keyboard or by USB, we use the USB option. This is also available from GameCabinets, Inc., as well as the wire and connectors |
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Small USB hub
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There is a small USB hub, designed for use with laptops, inside the box with the control panels. This lets all three devices (keyboard, trackball, I-PAC) to be controlled with one wire. None of these devices pull much power, so the hub need not be powered. |
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Linksys Wireless-B Game Adapter
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We have added wireless connectivity for the PC with a Linksys Wireless-B Game Adapter. Instead of hooking up internally or by USB and needing special drivers, you just connect the PC to the Linksys with an ethernet cord and treat it like a wired connection. |
